Tudor Roses

I’ve had a copy of Alice Starmore’s book Tudor Roses for a while now, without making any of the projects therein. As I participate in the current 52 plunge (52 pair of socks in 52 weeks), this was the opportunity of using at least the charts from the book.



The socks are knitted in 4 different Wollmeise colors and I’ve used the main chart from Henry VIII and the roses from the Tudor Rose sweater. I’ve made a few adaption’s to make the chart fit for socks. Needle 2, toe up and 84 stitches.



Since the chart is based upon Alice Starmore’s book I cannot post a picture of the chart as such, sorry for that.

Current projects

Or at least two of my current projects. And socks of course. I need to continue with socks to fill up the 52 plunge goal; 52 pair of socks from June till June.

After returning home from Pfaffenhofen with the car booth filled with lovely yarn, my head started ”spinning” with ideas for new socks.

Hence I cannot only knit on one pair a time but have started several (and have several in my head as well).

My two latest projects are named from the yarn name.

On the top is Flower Power.

FlowerPower is named after the first row; wherein I used the color FlowerPower. The FlowerPower chart is based upon Kaffe Fassett’s jacket in Vouge Knitting, but adapted to be used for socks.
The two other pictures show Maus Jong.

Mouse Jong – the lovely new grey colored yarn from Wollmeise needed to be used for its purpose. And Blue Susanne sets off the grey perfecly.

Sheep and duck

This is not a pattern as such, more a description of what I’ve done.
Important. The socks need to be flexible over the ankle. Hence do not have any pattern on the last 5-8 row prior to starting the heel, and also knit at least 5 rows on the foot before starting the next pattern.


I’ve casted on 56 on needle 2. If you want more stitches, the duck row needs 8 stitches and the sheep 14. However you may add one or two stitches extra between the ducks and sheep to get more stitches.
I’ve ribbed for 10-13 rows and then started the pattern. You might want to have the rib shorter. When the leg is long enough, divide for heel by using 27 stitches for the heel and 29 for the top.
Heel; on the right side, slip1, 1knit, slip 1, 1knit, until end of row. Each wrong side, do not purl first (slip it), purl the remaining 26 stitches.
I did knit in total 26 rows but you may knit as many as you like. Turn heel by knitting short rows. On first row knit 15, two together, wrap and turn. Purl 5, purl 2 together, wrap and turn. Continue till all stitches have been knitted. Pick up one stitch per slipped stitch. I did pick up in total 26.
Decrease for gusset each side on every second row until in total 56 stitches remains.
Decrease for toe when the sock is long enough. On the one pair I did decrease 4 on every second row, on the other on every row; until in total 16 stitches remain. Sew together.
Here is the chart - If you want "thicker" sheep add one or two rows on the rows where you are knitting 10 stitches of the sheeps body and 4 background. Note to make it easier I've made the sheep red :-)
On the foot I only knitted sheeps at the top. At the bottom I did try to make a fence. Please note that you will need to use three strands at some row and only 2 on others, and have to have that in mind when making the "fences".

Latest projects

I'm playing for the time being; with yarn that is.

I've started on the mice yesterday with Wollmeise Maus Jung and wonderful Blue Susanne.


I've posted Cupid several times now, so I limit this post to one picture showing both socks finished (yesterday).

Cupid

Important. When looking at the chart you will see that the yarn not in use will have to travel rather a lot of stitches. You will need to be able to do that to knit this pattern. Also, this travelling will make the socks less elastic. You have to take that into consideration when choosing the number of stitches to cast on.

I did cast on 84 and the socks fit me. However I do have a slim foot. I would have considered adding 6 more stitches – to 90 or substituted needle 2 with needle 2.25.

So to the pattern.

Needle 2 and Wollmeise yarn or other similar yarn.

Cast on 84. Rib for 2 rows in 4 k and 2 p. On the next and following 5 rows (6 in total) all knit stitches with pink and all purl stitches with background color. On the next and the following 3 rows substitute pink with green. Thereafter 6 rows with pink and background. 1 row with 4 k and 2 p in background color . Rib finished.

Knit one row (st st) with background and start chart. NOTE center chart around middle stitch. On the remaining stitches make a hart pattern. Also note that if you want to limit the long loops at the back It might be a good idea to start the second row of harts on the last row of the previous harts. (Please disregard two green colors - I did not see that I've used two different in the cart. I've only used one color in the socks).

Continue with the leg until the Cupid pattern has been completed. NOTE when finished with the Cupid himself continue making “cloud” stitches under his knee and foot as indicated in the pattern. You will need to continue knitting on the leg until you have finished the last row of harts on the back. Then knit one row with only the background. Cut yarn.

Then make heel. I’ve used 41 stitches for the heel. The background outside the hart is knitted with one strand of the background color and one strand of the pink. Do not knit /purl first stitch at any row. When you have 18 loops and the hart is completed, turn the heel. On my first row I knitted until 16 stitches remained, knitted 2 together and wraped and turned. Knitted back until 16 remained, purl 2 together , wrap and turn. Continue until there are no more stitches. Pick up at each side.

I did continue on the foot with 80 stitches. Find the centre stitch on the front. Place 2 markers after the 39^th stitches from each side of the centre stitch – i.e. 79 stitches. The hart pattern uses 8 stitches – i.e. calls for 80 stitches. The last stitch will be the last stitch from the gusset decrease. The remaining stitches shall be decreased as gusset under the foot. Start the round with the gusset AND the background color. On first row knit 1bacground 1pattern strand on gusset until the last gusset stitch that shall be in main color. Then start the hart pattern but NOTE start on the second stitch of first row. Continue around and on the last hart you will stop on the second last stitch of the pattern.

Next row decrease the second and the second last stitch on the gusset by knitting it together with the respective first and last stitch (i.e. k2/ssk). Continuing decreasing on every second row until 3 or 2 gusset stitch remains. If 3 – knit those together to one background color. If 2 knit those two together with background color. – i.e. 80 stitches remains.

Continue knitting the foot as long as you need bearing in mind that you shall have one red hart row prior to the toe. The red harts call for 6 stitches per hart – and if you have 80 stitches you need to decrease 2 (under the foot) to being able to knit this pattern.

Decrease for toe as you like.

If you want blue eyes find your needle and blue thread and start sewing:-)

Quiet - yes it is Summer :-)

And no time for blogging. I've been on vacation, shopping and have of course knitted (a little).
Vacation - two weeks of high temperature and sun in Norway :-)

Some of the socks finished during our vacation;




Shopping - what a nice store - the famous WM store of course:


Inside;